Pinhole Camera Negative to Positive

The objective of this project was to take our negative photos and turn them into a positive. The picture to the left is my negative photo, this wouldn't completely work because my negative had faded too much. My first test strip has visual transitions, but too much light was exposed. I tried it again with another test strip, that time you were able to somewhat see some of the detail from the background. So I decided to test out one more strip to see if I could get the picture to turn out positive. You could somewhat see the brick wall in the background and a shadow of a silhouette. I think that the photo paper was fogged, so that's why my photo wouldn't come out clear enough. On my final paper, the positive came out too light, yet you can still slightly see a silhouette of a person.

Pinhole Camera Negative + Questions

The first step with our pinhole cameras was to go outside, open our apertures, mine was open for 30 seconds. Then we had to go into the dark room and put the picture through the different chemicals. After we saw that there was no light getting inside we were able to take out pictures. I put another strip of photo paper inside my pinhole camera, and went outside. I placed my camera on a stool and took a picture of myself, my aperture was open for about 10 seconds. Then I went back into the dark room, and placed my strip through the chemicals. After completing both my strips, I then took a larger piece of paper and did my final picture with it. I went back outside, placed my camera on a stool, and opened my aperture for about 15 seconds. Again going back into the dark room and processing it through the chemicals. Completing my negative picture with my pinhole camera.

Pinhole Camera Worksheet Answers:
1. A camera obscura is a darkened box with an aperture to allow light inside. It is Latin for "dark room".
2. A pinhole camera is a camera that is light-tight, with a pinhole aperture, and no lens.
3. The three things all cameras have in common is an aperture, a shutter, and they are all light-tight.
4. The two parts of the camera that allow light to enter in is the pinhole aperture and the shutter.
5. To test a camera for "light leaks" you would go outside and open your shutter with the photo ready paper inside, and leave it open for about 10 seconds to test out. After you put the paper through the chemicals, if the picture is dark, that means too much light got inside. To fix it you must find where the light is getting into your camera, and cover it with black paper, making sure that there are no spaces where light can get through.
6. "Camera shake" is when you are taking a picture and your camera moves. Which will make the picture look blurry. To prevent this, you must have the camera set up on a stool or table to make sure there is no movement while taking the photo.
7. When a strip is placed in the developer, the lightened image begins to appear on the strip.
8. The stop bath is where you place your strip of paper after the developer, it stops the action of the developer.
9. When placed in the fixer, the strip is stabilized, removing the layer of silver film, leaving it insensitive to any light it comes into contact with.
10. When printing, you must agitate the chemicals because you want to make sure the entire film is soaked in the different chemicals. You also don't want your print to stick to anything else.
11. To prevent prints from sticking together you must use the tongs to move the photos around, making sure the do not touch one another.
12. We wash our prints because we don't want any remaining chemicals left on our film strips.